The P’tit Train du Nord, a popular bicycle trail north of Montréal, had been on my bucket list for over five years. As a train enthusiast and avid cross-country cyclist, this trail held a special allure for me and allowed to combine both of my two passions. So finally I had the opportunity to fulfill this dream and tackled the most popular section of the trail between Mont-Tremblant and Mont-Ronald alongside four of my close friends. In this article, I’d like to share the fascinating story of the P’tit Train du Nord, a railway that offers a rich history, stunning scenery, and warm hospitality of the Laurentides for those who take the trail.
In July 1892, the P’tit Train du Nord began operations, connecting Montreal to the picturesque Laurentides region passing through the Rivière du Nord valley. This railway revolutionized travel, making it easier for people to explore the great outdoors, enjoy winter sports, and experience the natural beauty of the area. The train operated by Canadian Pacific Railway became a vital artery, transporting passengers, goods, and services, and boosting local economies.
The train’s opening northern frontiers drew the attention of several wealthy people to the Laurentides region, including prominent figures such as Montréal’s Mayor Raymond Prefontaine, Supreme Court judge Charles Doherty, Public Works Minister Alphonse Nantel, Canadian Pacific Railway President Sir Thomas Shaughnessy, and others. Inns, shops, restaurants and lots of other local businesses were opened to address the growing needs of tourism year-round. The numbers speak volumes: in the winter of 1927-1928, 11,000 skiers came by train in just four months.
The train’s impact extended far beyond tourism. It served as a vital lifeline for the local communities. During the period between 1892 and 1921, the region’s population surged from 1,700 to 4,500, and formerly isolated communities in the Laurentides gained access to essential services like healthcare, jobs, and connections to the broader Montréal metropolitan area.
However, as cars became more accessible, the railway’s popularity declined, and the last passenger train ran in 1981. The tracks remained for another decades, kind of a reminder to a bygone era.
In the 1990s, a visionary group of citizens and local governments saw an opportunity to inject a new life into the abandoned railway. Quite a bold vision! Nevertheless, they managed to transform the 234 km / 145-mile stretch into a multi-use bike trail which opened in 1996. This rail trail is considered to be the longest park of its kind in Canada.
Today, the P’tit Train du Nord bike trail is a world-renowned destination. It attracts cyclists, hikers, and nature enthusiasts from far and wide. The trail finds its way through picturesque towns, cute little villages, and amazing landscapes. The region’s economy has flourished once again thanks to the trails. Local businesses now look forward to the influx of visitors during the warm season.
For those interested in trying this fantastic two-day cycling adventure, which I highly endorse as you have guessed my now, here’s a quick itinerary: After arriving from Ottawa (or another place) and having a quick brunch at a local cafe, we started from the Mont-Tremblant Downtown sector (marked by the 83 km trail sign) and pedalled to Camping du Domaine Lausanne (marked by the 60 km trail sign), where we spent the night. I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the trail was freshly paved as I had expected crushed stone instead.
Camping du Domaine Lausanne is a cute private little park, primarily catering to RVs, and featuring a picturesque lake in the middle. The park offers a range of amenities, including a supervised sandy beach, food truck, community room, and even an arcade game room. We chose two more secluded campsites, farther away from the main road. While the park conveniently sits on the P’tit Train du Nord trail, its bicycle-only campsites, at $19 per person per night, are located directly next to a busy highway - nay!
Although we cycled more distance on the second day, the ride was surprisingly easier, with the terrain being either flat or downhill. The trail also became increasingly picturesque and offered stunning views of waterfalls, lakes, and tall granite walls.
We made stops in a few charming villages along the way to take brief breaks to refuel with snacks and ice cream. Our journey ended at Mont-Roland, marked by the 26 km trail sign. The journey truly left me with a sense of accomplishment and quite a few fond memories.
The trail is well-marked and features a detailed map alongside many of the trail marker. Additionally, convenient amenities are strategically placed every 10-15 kilometres, including water refill stations, washrooms, and picnic tables to ensure a comfortable and well-supported journey for cyclists.
Vintage train stations in each village have been carefully restored and repurposed as museums, boutiques, and cafes.
The abundance of amenities along the trail and the high volume of cyclists (yes, it’s very busy on a nice summer weekend day!) prove the significant economic impact the trail has on these communities. The trail brings memories of Europe, where cycling is a beloved mode of transportation and urban areas often prioritize bike-friendly infrastructure. I wish Canada had more trails like this one, promoting sustainable transportation and fostering vibrant community development ∎.
Useful Resources:
Beautiful trip! I from the map you can pick this trail up from the last stop on the Montreal EXO in Saint-Jerome.